Sunday, March 06, 2005

Back from the wilds

Hello again,
Back in the real world again (P. Natales).
Just back from "doing" the "W" in the Torres national Park (thanks for the concern guys, but don´t worry the fire is now over although it was still smoldering at the east end and the land looks pretty devastated).

Anyway, trekking in the park was a truely magical experience.

Being non-traditional we apparently did it backwards but hey hoh that´s the people we are. However it seemed to make sense as the final morning was all downhill and looking at the poor people plodding uphill was even more rewarding as we could see the finish.

70km of hiking over 3 1/2 days was pretty exerting especially as we got our food calculations a bit wrong so had to do make do on raisons for breakfast, cheese and crackers for lunch on the 2nd last day. But the scenery was stunning and the changes from one valley to the next pretty unique. Walking through beautiful forests with Glaciers round every corner and Woodpeckers, Parrots and Owls flying around above your heads. Its pretty hard to make any sort of sensible comparisons.

The park is pretty unspoilt at the moment (apart from the fire but most of the burnt land is outside the main area of the park - the "Circuit" is closed for those who know what I´m on about) especially as there is no direct acces by road so you have to hike or boat in.

However there are a lot of "trains" of trekkers following their guides. Inclucing one Japonese couple who rushed past us and their guide wasd carrying their ruckscaks as well as his own. So on certain sections it may be busy enough that you see all of 20 - 30 people! So on a Lake district level it´s not that busy but when you could go for hours on some sections and not see anyone you did notice it.

I´d advise you all to get on the first plane and see it now!!! The landscape and atmosphere is so special that the number of tourists will only increase.

We walked on the Glaciers and did a bit of Ice Climbing which was exciting. 16 stone hanging by three little bits of metal was a real leap of faith. Aideen raced up the ice face and looks a real natural. Dunno if Cork has any Ice walls though!

The Torres peaks were truely spectacular. Climbed up to see them at dawn - 6.30 - and when we got there they were really impressive but had none of the colour all the postcards have. We thought we´d missed it but then all of a sudden it was like someone shone a red light on them and they were lit up with a glorious reddy orange.
The Wow factor was at set at stun.

In between we did a lot of trekking (15-25km a day) and it was sunny for most of the time but am so glad to be sat down here inside with no rucksack.
I was starting to really dislike my rucksack.
The sweat was pouring off me and the water is so pure coming straight from the glaciers (apart from the occasional shrimp which we nearly drank) that I had such a salt craving that I licked out the salt from an empty peanut bag.

Neil, you will be proud as Aideen has learnt how to make trangia mush. The last night´s meal of pasta, dried corn soup powder and curry powder reminded me so some of your best!

P. Natales is a lovely town. So lovely that they have a lovely vegetarian cafe (El Living) where, last night, we had a starter for me and veggie burger for aideen and then went right next door to a Parilla where the steak was the best I´ve had so far on the trip. Such foresight by the Town planners!

Have uploaded a couple of photo´s but internet is v. slow so may have to wait for others when get to a city.

Hope life in the real world is keeping you all well.

Take care and keep on trekking!

Eoin (PPS for Aideen)

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